In the Footsteps of the Cathars
By Lewis Adler, 2nd Feb 2012 | Follow this author
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Posted in WikinutTravelEuropeFranceLanguedoc
I wrote this travel article and shot its accompanying photographs for a travel magazine assignment in the 1990s. Now, however, seems an appropriate moment to resurrect it for the benefit of Wikinut readers
Preamble
REFLECTING quietly on a recent visit to the Languedoc region of Southern France, brings to mind the opening lines of that inspired 1927 text by Max Ehrmann entitled The Desiderata, which reads: “Go placidly amid the noise and the haste, and remember what peace there may be in silence.”
Those few simple words seem to offer a fitting description of the calm and quietude experienced throughout my visit, and they tend also to echo the serenity and beauty of an area in southern Europe that, thus far, has escaped the less desirable effects of tourism.
The vacation itself took the form of a personal pilgrimage fuelled by the first few chapters of the best-seller "The Holy Blood and the Holy Grail" by Messrs Bagent, Leigh and Lincoln, not to mention several books by the late Arthur Guirdham.
Together, these books instilled in me a desire to experience - first hand - a region of France which, during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, witnessed the flowering and eventual extermination of a socio-relgious group called The Cathars.
In the light of recent developments within both the Anglican and Roman Catholic Churches, it is interesting to note that The Cathars encouraged the ordination of both men and women, but only after they had experienced the responsibilities of adult life, including home-building and parenthood.
Perhaps, though, the most intriguing aspect of Cathar thought was a fundamental belief in the concept of re-incarnation: a concept also embraced by the early Christian Church. In fact, history records that, had the Roman Emperor Justinian not anathematised it in 553 AD, the concept of re-incarnation might very well have remained as part of the Christian ethic to this day.
But enough of the theology lesson. This vacation was also intended to be an escape from the rigours of twentieth century Britain. And in that respect, the venture was a resounding success.
Outward Journey
Forsaking hotels, my wife Jenny and I sampled the hospitality of the French equivalent of Britain’s own farmhouse bed and breakfast industry: a decision which also presented us with the opportunity of improving our, otherwise, tenuous grasp of the French language.
Gites de France, alternatively known as Chambre D’Hotes, are tightly regulated by a national charter, and this seems to be reflected in the quality of the accommodation, the warmth of welcome, and the standard of cuisine. Contrary to popular opinion, the French are not incapable of catering for vegetarians. All one has to do is ask. Indeed, during my stay, I enjoyed a variety of delicious vegetable dishes, plus of course, the ubiquitous vegetarian standby ... omelette. (I haven’t eaten an egg since!).
We based our vacation - following a two day drive across France - in the charming town of Foix, having crossed the channel overnight from Plymouth to Roscoff aboard the superb Brittany Ferries vessel Val de Loire.
Montsegur
Foix nestles in the foothills of The Pyrenees, and is within striking distance of all the major Cathar sites of interest, including the spectacular mountain-top fortress of Montsegur. It was here, on March 16, 1244, after a lengthy siege, 215 Cathars (both men and women) were thrown into the flames of a gigantic stake, because they would not renounce their beliefs.
Minerve
Thirty-four years earlier, on July 22, 1210, a similar fate had befallen 140 Cathars at the beautiful village of Minerve (located some 60 Km north-east of Carcassonne, and surrounded on three sides by a deep gorge). Minerve today, retains much of its medieval atmosphere, despite its restaurants and museums. Most compelling of all, though, is the town’s simple monument to those who perished on that summer day 802 years ago.
Carcassonne
The perfectly intact medieval city of Carcassonne is, by contrast, an impressive testimony to the construction industry of the Middle Ages. Its great walls and turrets have an unmistakable air of permanence and impregnability that few twentieth century buildings can match.
Carcassonne was regarded as the greatest fortress of its day, and it must have presented to its attackers a redoubtable target. The prospect of a lengthy siege, and the likelihood of many casualties would, almost certainly, have been uppermost in the minds of the Crusaders massed beyond the city’s walls in the Autumn of 1209.
However, following that year’s long hot summer, Carcassonne’s water supply failed and many in the garrison succumbed to an outbreak of typhoid. The result was a siege that lasted a mere three weeks: an outcome that guaranteed the eventual obliteration of the Cathar movement and its sympathisers.
Virtually untouched by the ravages of battle, Carcassonne remains today, one of Europe’s truly magnificent historical landmarks, and a living museum of life in the Middle Ages ... despite the numerous souvenir shops nestling within its ancient walls.
Beziers
Earlier in that same summer of 1209, the nearby town of Beziers - a stone’s throw from the Mediterranean coast - had witnessed one of the most horrific events of the entire campaign against the Cathars. Historians record that some seven thousand inhabitants of the town (Cathars and Catholics alike) were herded into the church of St Madeleine and put to the sword. When asked by a Crusader who should be slain, the notorious inquisitor the Abbe of Citeaux, Arnaud Amaury replied ... “Kill them all. God will know His own”.
Happily, today, Beziers retains none of its macabre history. On the contrary, it’s a delightfully lazy town of broad leafy avenues, plus numerous pavement cafes and restaurants. The town’s museum too, is well worth a visit, but do try to avoid using the Beziers underground car park ... unless you have a penchant for mazes and puzzles!
Alet les Bains
For a true sense of history and an all-embracing atmosphere of peace and tranquility, however, the spa town of Alet-les-Bains takes some beating. Alet-les-Bains is a trading town with a history that stretches as far back as the Ancient Egyptians, and the Greek and Roman cultures that followed.
Adjacent to the town’s tiny cathedral, with its curious Star of David circular windows, you’ll find the presbytery which has been converted into an exposition by author and illustrator Roger Antoni.
In spite of our minimal command of each other’s languages, Roger, Jenny and myself spent upwards of two hours in deep historical discussion, thanks to a multitude of hand signals, numerous sketches and my trusty French-English dictionary.
By then, it was time for lunch, and a short walk to the Alet-les-Bains town square produced that day’s culinary piece de resistance ... a truly delicious vegetable dish, plus all the trimmings, at the Auberge de la Main Argent Hotel and Restaurant. Formidable!
Rennes le Chateau
A few kilometres south of Alet-les-Bains lies the hilltop village of Rennes-le-Chateau: the focal point of the aforementioned best selling book The Holy Blood and the Holy Grail. It was here in 1891 that the then parish priest Berenger Sauniere unearthed two parchments dating from 1244 and 1644 respectively.
The events which followed that discovery can only be described as mysterious. Suddenly Sauniere began to act strangely. His postage bills alone showed he was spending way beyond his means. Then, in 1896, he began to spend even more extravagantly, on such community spirited ventures as the construction of a new road leading to Rennes-le-Chateau, followed by the installation of the village’s very first running water supply.
Eventually, however, Sauniere’s new-found financial freedom took a bizarre twist. Over the following ten years, he commissioned not only the building of the Tour Magdala, a strange tower nestling on the sheer cliff-edge of Rennes-le-Chateau, but also a rambling country house which he never occupied. By the time of his death in 1917, it is estimated that Sauniere’s spending spree amounted to the equivalent of several million pounds.
Where did this wealth come from? No one knows. Sauniere took his secret to the grave. But compelling evidence unearthed since the 1970s indicates that the two mysterious parchments discovered by him in 1891 may have led him to hidden treasure. Moreover, there now exists a school of thought embracing the possibility that the treasure itself, once located, will point to the whereabouts of the legendary Holy Grail and the long lost Ark of The Covenant. Clearly, the on-going investigation still has many more avenues to explore.
Epilogue
Speaking of which (well, nearly): the French road system, by comparison with our own here in the UK, is far superior. Often smoother, straighter and - in off peak periods - noticeably less congested than their British counterparts, the French network of non-motorway roads are, in general, a delight to drive on.
The Auto-route tolls in France, however, can be a drain on one’s fiscal resources. But the speed and convenience of French motorways, not to mention their remarkable lack of road works and lane restrictions, can far outweigh any expenditure involved, especially on one’s homeward journey.
It may take a couple of days to complete, but once the homeward journey by road over, you’ll realise just how rested you are. A trip to the Languedoc region of France is indeed a chance to “go placidly amid the noise and the haste” and, above all, sample the peace and tranquility of one of Europe’s most historic and picturesque locations.
Comments
3rd Feb 2012 (#)
I just wanted to come by and say hi. Good to see ya and look at you, you come back with a bang. I will be honest, I am so darn tired and I want to do your page the justice it is due so, I will come back tomorrow and read it. Nice seeing ya. I will see ya tomorrow. As always, thank you for sharing.:)
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3rd Feb 2012 (#)
Thanks Denise: I hope you enjoy the read.
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3rd Feb 2012 (#)
What a wonderful article, Lewis, and with a big shiny Star attached too! This was a fascinating account and made a great read both historically and travel wise. Good to see you again my friend. You have been missed..
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3rd Feb 2012 (#)
Many thanks Songbird. I'm pleased you enjoyed the read. I've been so tied-up with other things in recent weeks, I thought it was about time I found time to contribute a little more to Wikinut.
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3rd Feb 2012 (#)
Enjoyed reading your little adventure, Lewis, of historical value. Nice to see you back with a vengeance, a great STAR page, my friend.
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3rd Feb 2012 (#)
Thankis Buzz: so glad you found the historical angle of particular interest.
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3rd Feb 2012 (#)
Lovely - lovely - lovely. Love anything to do with the Cathars. I've been to some of these places. Carcassonne is my favourite.
Come visit me, Lewis??? Would be nice to see you on MY pages, my friend.
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4th Feb 2012 (#)
Thank you Sheila! I'm on my way
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3rd Feb 2012 (#)
fantastic..so glad you wrote this. l visited the Cathar area a couple of years ago as I knew I had to experience it. I felt no upset there and I realized that the Cathars were happy to go on to the next stage of their Being. The energy fields were joy filled still. thank you again .
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4th Feb 2012 (#)
Many thanks cnwriter I'm so pleased to hear you enjoyed your visit there too. From your comments, I'd say the area hasn't changed much since my visit in 1993. That's really excellent news!
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6th Feb 2012 (#)
Lewis, what well written and entertaining page. Yes, I did enjoy reading your piece. Also, I love the photos, just lovely. Congrats on the star page, it is well deserved. As always, thank you for sharing.:)
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6th Feb 2012 (#)
Thanks Denise: I'm glad you were able to come-back and read the piece in full. The photos were a difficult choice because I had so many others from which to choose. But I'm glad you enjoyed those I selected.
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8th Apr 2012 (#)
Well written. I love France and traveling through by car. You see so much more on a road trip.
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8th Apr 2012 (#)
Thank you Jenny. Yes road trips are a favourite of mine too. I have particularly fond memories of my drive from LA to Las Vegas in 2006. Stunning!
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